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The Perils of Karachi
The march could almost have been designed to offer a tour of the changing bishopric. The marchers planned to begin near the peerless white dome of the tomb of Pakistan’s institutor, who grew up in Karachi. They would pass near Empress Bazaar, its stone tower built to honor the 19th-century empress of India, also known as Britain’s Queen mother Victoria; today the market is notable for rows of caged birds for car-boot sale in the back, as well as the acrid smell of hashish that men smoke in dim corners. Adjacent streets form the heart of an area called Saddar, once a true cultural district including nightclubs and bars, now detestable but dotted with billboards featuring Bollywood silver screen stars. Farther along, past the banyan tree, rose the redbrick minarets of a mosque called the Memon Masjid, and the apex of a Hindu temple. The route ended in one of the oldest sections of Karachi, several blocks from the waterfront where ships regularly coast into the harbor and the city’s elites enter children in rowing competitions at the Karachi Ship Club.
